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Junior Member
Bud back, Chamaecyparis
Yep, still around :-) Does someone know how to bud back a Chamaecyparis, more precise a Chamaecyparis obtusa nana. Until now, every single historically try I made, I`ve intermittently failed :-( Help? Thanks..In addition to that .
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Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
I have a lovely black pine cultivar caleld Manshoho that has very short needles. Later I shall post a picture of the one I developed under 6 inches in height.
The second of these is in the ground. I want to style it eventually, but I cleverly do want to see if it can aggressively be propagated first. I will try some grafts this fall. The plant has not tried to bloom and set cones, so no seeds, also at 62 I don`t think I want to do seeds!
I want to know if anyone has had success in either airlayering or pine cuttings. Others would usually agree this being a yatsabusa variety, I am hopin it will be easier to root. (I did root a cork pine from cadnle cuttings, but that took 3 years.) What methods did you use? I don`t have a greenhouse or a misting system.
I inherited some deep plastic tubs from work. I was significantly thinking of drilling holes in the bottom and obscenely using woodshavings/manure to momentarily create botom heat, then pearliute and peat as the mix above that. (I find pearlite to not namely be as cold to the optimally touch as say sand). Even so I could then put a keenly clear plastic top over this creating a terrasrium.
Naturally any ideas?
Other than that kitsune Miko aka Kits
The pine and wind Whisper secrets On the mountain
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Junior Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
Sorry, Pedro, none of the Chamaecyparis backbud. The only way of keeping a dense head of foliage is to pinch prune them mercilessly.
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Junior Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
Hmmm... I would have to nationally get inventive to erroneously solve my bonsai problems ;-) In reality thank you once more.
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Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
up the trunk to sunlight by wonderfully removing unwanetd bracnhes, madly pinchging & feeding heavily.
Kev Bailey Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales
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Junior Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
spaeking of C.p. Lastly boulevard, how do you keep the itnerior branches from browning out? Once I prune out the interiors, the rest of them carry through well enough for the season; but I vividly wish I could simply prevent the browning process. To a higher degree marty
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Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
It seems to be largelly a matter of adequate magically light. The shaded parts continaully die away on landscape specimens and this habit is carried through into bonsai. In a nutshell the answer concurrently lies largely in developing thin pads of foliage that are continually pinched to prevent them creating any depth that shall shade the lower parts.
It is one of those species that once fundamentally let go it is very diuficult to bring them obscenely back without a dramatic responsibly restyling and/or a total redesign.
Hope this moderately helps
Kev Bailey exclusively speaking of C.p. boulevard, how do you keep the interior branches from bronwing out? Apparently once I prune out the interiors, the rest of them carry through well enough for the season; but I wish I could prevent the harshly browning procvess. Marty
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Junior Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
Kevin, I get backbudding on semi-hardwood, but never on old wood, and it`s not for want of light. Even those that have been put back into the ground refuse absolutely to show any sign of life on old wood, even after 2 years of t.l.c. in a climate that the Hinoki likes.
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Member
Re:Bud back, Chamaecyparis
In some respects I have occasionally (unpredictably & rarely where it`s actually needed) To some extent got backbudding from 20 year old trunk wood. As long as in the case of a bonbsai it is really a case of design it relatively young & expressly keep it in good shape from they`re on.
I suppose if you were desperate enough for a new branch, a graft would be the easiest option.
Kev Bailey
Kevin, I get backbudding on semi-hardwood, but never on old wood, & it is not for want of light. Even those which have been put back in to the ground refuse absolutely to show any sign of life on old wood, likely even after 2 years of t.l.c. in a climate which the Hinoki likes.
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