Bonsai Tree Questions

[Someguy22]

Hi, I am very new to growing and raising Bonsai Trees. For a while now I have been wanting one and finally got one for my birthday. However being new to all of this I have been searching online for info about the tree I got. It said on the tap it was Hinoki but I want to be 100% sure about it so I added a picture below. If someone could confirm that it is that would be awesome!

Also I live in a very cold climate during Winter. Because of this the tree must be in doors, I dont want to have it outside because the soil will freeze very quickly.(Avg temp is 15 F the past week) So I was wondering about some tips to raise the tree indoors. Such as indoor lighting conditions watering and fertilizing.

Currently I have it sitting in my window getting the morning sun. I then move the plant into the kitchen to get the afternoon and evening sun all through the window so it is not direct. I was wondering if this is healthy. If someone could please help me especially with identifying the tree that would be most helpful!

[Someguy22]

<br><br>Post edited by: Someguy22, at: 2008/12/23 07:45

[Someguy22]

[Rachel]

Hi Guy,

You do have a Hinoki Cypress also called a false Cypress. Sorry to tell you you May not be able to keep this tree indoors. It is a Temperate zone tree and needs a period of Dormancy to survive. But it still has to be protected from the Elements. A non heated Garage, or closed in porch will be good for winter protection Cover . I attached this article for you about your tree I hope it helps.


Hinoki (or False) Cypress - Chamaecyparis sp.


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General Information: This broad, sweeping, conical-shaped evergreen has graceful, flattened, fern-like branchlets which gently droop at branch tips. Hinoki
Falsecypress reaches 50 to 75 feet in height with a spread of 10 to 20 feet, has dark green foliage, and attractive, shredding, reddish-brown bark which peels off in long narrow strips.

The easiest false cypress to keep alive is the Hinoki cypress, C. obtusa. Many report great success in growing it, but unfortunately, it seems to be one of the most difficult to keep in proper bonsai form due to the whorling fan patern of the foliage. Boulevard cypress (C. pisifera 'Boulevard') and Chamaecyparis thyoides 'Andelyensis Conica', Andelyensis cypress, seem to be the varieties which cause the most grief.

Family: Cupressaceae

Lighting: Full sun, in all but the hottest climates, is ESSENTIAL. Without proper lighting, lower and inner branches brown and die, which is a serious problem because Chamaecyparis will not bud back on old wood. Many books recommend putting these trees in the shade, but this seems to be a strategy to avoid having the soil dry out completely (see watering, below).

Temperature: Zone 5 - 8A. Most Chamaecyparis species are hardy to -10F, but are in danger of die-back from cold, drying winds. Some degree of frost/wind protection is advised. Lesniewicz claims that C. pisifera 'Plumosa,' C. pisifera 'Nana Aurea,' and C. pisifera ' Squarrosa' can be grown indoors, in a bright, airy location away from any heat sources.

Watering: Touchy. Many varieties, especially Boulevard/blue moss cypress, are very vulnerable to root rot. However, unlike most genera that like it dry, false-cypresses tend to drink a lot of water, especially when in an active growth phase. And Chamaecyparis can never be allowed to dry out completely. Also, drying winds can cause foliage die-back. The best strategy is to use very fast-draining soil, water moderately, allow it to dry somewhat between waterings, and supplement watering with frequent misting. Also, an older couple in the Buffalo Bonsai Society with some very nice Chamaecyparis advised me to water only in the morning to early afternoon, to avoid having the trees stand in water overnight.

Feeding: Every two weeks, from early spring to midautumn. Use Miracid, as Chamaecyparis is a lime-hater. An extra tip from Brent: for blue varieties (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Boulevard, Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Minima Glauca') water occasionally with 1 teaspoon/gallon epsom salts. This will provide added magnesium which turns the foliage an intense blue.

Pruning and wiring: The major styling challenge for false cypress is the fatal combination of rapid growth, die-back from lack of light, and refusal to bud on old wood. If Chamaecyparis isn't pruned constantly, inside and lower branches will die and never grow back, making bonsai maintenence a headache. The tree is best shaped through constant pinching of new foliage - never use scissors to prune as foliage browns where cut. Hinoki cypress also tends to form awkward whorls of foliage if not properly pruned. There is an excellent article by Kamajiro Yamada in International Bonsai 1995/No. 3 which gives detailed instructions accompanied with photographs of how to do this. Most false cypresses are easy to wire, but branches may take a while to set and may need to be re-wired several times to avoid cutting in to the tree. Can be wired at any time of year, but as wiring seems to sap the vigor of the plant, it is best to wait three months after repotting to wire.

Propagation: Cuttings can be taken from young wood in July or August. Hinoki cypress cuttings will root readily. Can be grown from seed, but needs cold pre-treatment and may take up to a year to germinate. Veneer grafting can be used on Hinoki cypress in summer.

Repotting: Every two to four years in early to mid spring for young trees, every three to five years for older ones. Your soil mix will depend on your conditions: fast-draining is the best idea for most people, but a richer mix might be preferable in extremely hot areas to keep the roots from drying completely. Hinoki cypress roots easily, and may need to be repotted every second year, removing as much as 1/3 to 1/2 of the root mass. Avoid using pots which are too large, especially with Boulevard cypress, as this keeps them too wet.

Pests and diseases: Pests: Juniper scale can be controlled by applying pesticides when the crawlers are active. The bagworm webs dead foliage and other debris together to make a nest. The covering makes the insect difficult to control. The nests can be picked off by hand. Diseases: Blight can be a problem on young plants in nurseries or old plants in landscape situations. In young plants, branch tips turn brown and die back until the whole branch or young tree is killed. Trees over five years old are less susceptible. When older trees in landscapes are affected by tip blight, entire trees are seldom killed. Tip blight can infect trees during wet weather. The disease causes sooty pustules on the leaves, bark and cones. Scorch may look like a disease but is caused by excessive direct sun, freezing stress, drought or mites.<br><br>Post edited by: Rachel, at: 2008/12/23 15:33

[Someguy22]

I dont have a garage or porch but I do have a shed will that do? Also when is it ok to have it indoors and when is it not ok to have it indoors?

[Rachel]

The shed will do fine.

[Someguy22]

I am just wondering now. Since it is dipping very below freezing at night, should I take it inside? I am afraid that the soil will freeze and that will be unhealthy for it. Also the shed window faces South, should I put the Hinoki in the window so it can get the sun, or is it a matter of it just getting fresh air? Also once the summer does come around can I take it and place it indoors since the windows will be open and it will get fresh air and sun then? BTW thank you Rachel for answering my questions! I am just very new and very inexperienced at this and I want to do a good job my first time around. I read all that but I do not really understand about the climate zones it speaks of.

[mikey012076]

Someguy22 wrote:

I am just wondering now. Since it is dipping very below freezing at night, should I take it inside? I am afraid that the soil will freeze and that will be unhealthy for it. Also the shed window faces South, should I put the Hinoki in the window so it can get the sun, or is it a matter of it just getting fresh air? Also once the summer does come around can I take it and place it indoors since the windows will be open and it will get fresh air and sun then? BTW thank you Rachel for answering my questions! I am just very new and very inexperienced at this and I want to do a good job my first time around. I read all that but I do not really understand about the climate zones it speaks of.

Your Hinoki Cypress will be dead in 2 months if you keep it in side your house does not mater if it is sumer or winter, it is just that a Hinoki Cypress can not live in doors at all even the best bonsai masters have tried not a one can keep them living, Your Hinoki Cypress will need a winter or it will die the tree needs to sleep like you if you do not sleep you will die but a Hinoki Cypress only sleeps in the winter, if you keep brining your Hinoki Cypress in your house when you think it is to cold it will keep waking up and will die, best thing to do is put it out side cover the pot and soil with mulch cover your tree with a burlap bag and keep it out of the wind, the soils will freeze roots will not that is why a tree has sap so it does not freeze, i have had a Hinoki Cypress for a wile it is still living even under 2 feet of snow, best thing to do is put it out side or you will have a dead tree by spring, and if it does not get sleep it will be dead by middle of summer because your tree just gave up, i will show you a photo of my Hinoki Cypress.

Mike...:O)



<br><br>Post edited by: mikey012076, at: 2008/12/24 20:21

[Rachel]

Hi Mickey that's a nice tree (the one under the snow). Guy like Mike said Your tree can not come into the house. It is an outside tree. When It wakes up in the spring you can bring it in for a couple days at a time in order to enjoy it in the comfort of your home, but it can't stay inside it has to go back outside. Taking it inside and outside on a continuous cycle will kill your tree. So enjoy it, but leave it outside. GOOD LUCK

[Someguy22]

Thank you all for the answers, they have been very helpful! My only last question is now to either but it inside the shed or outside like you suggested. In the shed there will be no sunlight but it will be protected from the elements. While outside it will be exposed but I plan to take Mickey's advice and put it inside a bag. Which would be the best? Also should to bag be clear as to let sunlight in? And again which would be best for it, the shed or outside in the light? I really do love the art of bonsai growing and I do wish to pursue it and not let this tree die! Again thank you all for the advice and help!